crossing the isthmus

tuxtla to tapanatepec (158km) as from san cristobal, leaving tuxtla was another top-of-the-morning climb out of a valley, and we spent several early hours rolling through the hills. the payoff was a beautiful 15km downhill stretch (see abby at the top) into friendly cintalapa town, where we took a break outside a local storefont and practiced our spanish with 2 kids and a shopkeeper, all who found us very curious. the wide and exposed land from cintalapa led us to the chiapas/oaxaca border but not without taxing our legs with some steady climbing. by the afternoon and already 120km into our day, we felt the terrain in our legs more than ever. thanks to a mexican landscape that always seems to keep utter exhaustion at bay, we found strength in our surroundings--high and rolling pastures, humble yet bright cottages, and farmers with weathered but quick smiles (and always impeccably crisp hats) that seemed to say "just around this bend, now." our last climb of the day was up a switchback road where at the top we lunched on tortillas, doble crema queso de chiapas y tomates, and for desert the solemn promise from a local that the next bit of road to our destination in tapanatepec would be all downhill. we set off for our last 30km down the backside of the sierra madres and heading toward the isthmus. the vista was sweeping and spectacular, green cliffs towering against a hazy blue sky that smelled familiar, like salt air. several glimpses of the gulfo de tehuantepec confirmed our vicinity to the sea. how strange to see the pacific so close and know we won´t splash in it until baja! in the quiet and lowkey town of tapanatepec we camped out in the corner lot of a 24hr Pemex gas station, under the watch of the friendly guard and several station managers. while we were safe and sleeping on the cheap, it was one rough night after a long day´s ride. it was sweltering inside the tent and the ever-nocturnal truck traffic was loud and noisy.

tapanatepec to juchitan (100km) though relieved to see our night at the gas station come to an end, we got a late start to tackle the flat and sweaty isthmus, the skinniest part of mexico. usually our legs are tireless on this type of straightaway, but we weren´t well rested and abby began to suffer from a combination of stomach pains (producing burps like our bullfrogs back in the quintana roo rainbelt) and overexhaustion. always a trooper, she kept apace--riding is becoming increasing automatic, despite elements of terrain, weather, and bodily dysfunction. the last 50km of our day, however, was a difficult lesson in how mexico got this tail of an isthmus, surely a result of a determined and relentless wind that peeled away a strip of the sierra madres from mexico´s larger body, a wind which continues to flatten the detached landscape (and all who dare cross it!) with its northern whip. we battled 30-40mph and gusty headwinds that are known to drive even vehicles off the road. we made it as far as juchitan, where we are currently, and we are spending a layover day here so abby can rest and recover. except for the unfortunate circumstances of abby´s belly and fatigue, being postponed in juchitan is quite pleasurable. eastern oaxaca/isthmus culture is alive and colorful in this friendly town where few gringos probably ever stop. el centro is full of oaxaqueños enjoying a relaxing afternoon on this bright and breezy sunday. the women don colorful embroidered huipiles with long and full skirts and dangling gold jewelry, and they are busy selling floral arrangements, fresh breads and produce, and clothing. the more lowkey men remain in the background, congregating on shady park benches in small social groups and beneath their wide-brimmed cowboy hats. meanwhile, we are excited to be in oaxaca! abby, as always, is on a fast recovery and we should head out again tomorrow, to begin the slow and steep climb to the city of oaxaca, which sits 1800m high in the mountains. we expect the 300+km could take us 4-5 days, and inbetween the large plates of mole that wait at the top, we´ll find the time to write you all about it.